(Edit, addendum 10/13/07)
Now after several months of extended use, it's time to add to the
review in light of experience. There is a downside and that is in the
(electrical) contact on the back of the LED PCB (printed circuit
board). The solder paths create a single lead/tin "button" in the
center of the PCB. The positive terminal of the battery holder contacts
this "button." This solder "button" tends to oxidize as time goes on,
and that makes the passage of current from the battery holder either
absent or intermittant. In most cases, whacking the flashlight against
the palm of your hand lengthwise will bounce the battery housing enough
to break the oxidation layer and everything goes back to normal
function.
On the (now many) lights we've purchased and distributed, I took
the time to removed the LED pcb and solder multple strands of copper
acrosse the end of the button, or, simply solder a small copper circle
to the button. In EVERY case, the problem vanished and hasn't returned.
While this is a minor problem, the pricing is such that it can
pretty much be ignored. If one is so inclined, the time and effort
necessary to effect a permanent repair is minimal and well worth the
small effort involved.
geoff http://themaking-of.blogspot.com/
Sunday, March 17, 2013
it's time to add to the review in light of experience
excellent price to quality
(Edit, addendum 10/13/07)
Now after several months of extended use, it's time to add to the
review in light of experience. There is a downside and that is in the
(electrical) contact on the back of the LED PCB (printed circuit
board). The solder paths create a single lead/tin "button" in the
center of the PCB. The positive terminal of the battery holder contacts
this "button." This solder "button" tends to oxidize as time goes on,
and that makes the passage of current from the battery holder either
absent or intermittant. In most cases, whacking the flashlight against
the palm of your hand lengthwise will bounce the battery housing enough
to break the oxidation layer and everything goes back to normal
function.
On the (now many) lights we've purchased and distributed, I took
the time to removed the LED pcb and solder multple strands of copper
acrosse the end of the button, or, simply solder a small copper circle
to the button. In EVERY case, the problem vanished and hasn't returned.
While this is a minor problem, the pricing is such that it can
pretty much be ignored. If one is so inclined, the time and effort
necessary to effect a permanent repair is minimal and well worth the
small effort involved.
geoff http://themaking-of.blogspot.com/
(Edit, addendum 10/13/07)
Now after several months of extended use, it's time to add to the
review in light of experience. There is a downside and that is in the
(electrical) contact on the back of the LED PCB (printed circuit
board). The solder paths create a single lead/tin "button" in the
center of the PCB. The positive terminal of the battery holder contacts
this "button." This solder "button" tends to oxidize as time goes on,
and that makes the passage of current from the battery holder either
absent or intermittant. In most cases, whacking the flashlight against
the palm of your hand lengthwise will bounce the battery housing enough
to break the oxidation layer and everything goes back to normal
function.
On the (now many) lights we've purchased and distributed, I took
the time to removed the LED pcb and solder multple strands of copper
acrosse the end of the button, or, simply solder a small copper circle
to the button. In EVERY case, the problem vanished and hasn't returned.
While this is a minor problem, the pricing is such that it can
pretty much be ignored. If one is so inclined, the time and effort
necessary to effect a permanent repair is minimal and well worth the
small effort involved.
geoff http://themaking-of.blogspot.com/
